Stats

Friday, September 28, 2012

Letter from Espargal: 33 of 2012

Rolf and Cathy have gone home to Berlin. On their last evening, we sat out on the cobbled patio before taking ourselves to the new Indian restaurant in Loule. We arrived just before a crowd that overwhelmed the staff. Several people walked out after waiting in vain for service. We were lucky to suffer only the loss of Jones's naan order.

Each evening Cathy would arm herself with a hose and join Barbara in watering the garden. I was most grateful as she relieved me of this daily chore. Jones calls this area her secret garden. It's here among the rocks in the shade of carob and almond trees that she nurtures new plants requiring daily refreshment.

By the by, that tree is adorned with holey stones - which abound around here. At last came signs of the promised rains. So often we get forecasts of rain next week that turns to sunshine this week. As with politician's promises, it's in the future that good things lie. For once welcome fat black clouds gathered over Benafim.

And last Sunday summer's drought broke. It was only 16mms but it was a wonderful 16mms, spattering off the carport roof and varnishing the cobbles. From the upper patio, water spurted into waiting barrels below. The stuff is far too precious to waste. What a relief it is to let nature irrigate the garden for a change!

The only downside of the wet weather is the mud that compacts stubbornly in the dogs' paws, along with small stones and you name it. Too often, the darlings dash into the house, leaving a muddy trail across Jones's newly cleaned floors. The only solution is to wash their paws thoroughly first.

The point of this exercise is lost upon the dogs, who are anything but willing partici- pants. Here Jones encourages Mary to come along to the tray filled with warm water. As you see, it's hard work. Unless it smells of food (the love of Mary's life) or rabbits (to be chased frantically), Mary is not interested.

The blog would not be complete without a Jones sunrise. Like the Aztecs and Incas, she is concerned to see the sacred orb begin its daily journey across the skies and like them she makes the requisite sacrifice - in her case, of her sleep. I am more concerned to see the sun go down.

I have followed Rolf's example in taking out a subscription to the Economist, the weekly digital edition of which I now download each Thursday night on to my iPad. As I speak, Jones it typing away on the device at her desk behind me. Rolf had brought his own iPad with him from Germany as well as a laptop for Cathy's benefit.

He would sit out at this table in the sunshine for hours, reading the news or catching up on his downloaded German TV "crimmies". Don't be fooled! This semblance of discipline is achieved by bringing a pocketful of biscuits on to the patio and insisting that the dogs sit before they get them.

Here is Jones checking the blog. She is supposed to warn me of any grammatical or spelling errors - however unlikely - but she tends to question my choice of words or the wisdom of including certain items. On occasion I have been grateful for the doubts she raised.

Friday afternoon - the patio is soaking. I awoke from a most satisfying siesta to find that the clouds I earlier pictured over the mountains had arrived over us and dropped their load. The rain gauge says we've had 10mms. What a wonderful way to end the week!

Friday, September 21, 2012

Letter from Espargal: 32 of 2012

Let the pictures speak.

On Sundays the Espargal expats gather at the Coral for brunch. Our numbers range from four to fourteen. Here we are in strength. Celso and Brigitte sweat to keep the coffees and croque-madames flowing.

Nor are we the only clients. Sunday cyclists use the Coral as a watering point, clattering into the snackbar on their toes-up cycling shoes. Time to admire muscular bronzed legs, smart bikes and striking outfits. Cycling is a popular sport in Portugal. For myself, I haven't been on a bike since we left London.

A ramble of scouts, male and female, comes trekking past, whence and to where it's hard to know. As I reflect to my companions, gone are the girl guides. These days, all are scouts - and the better for it to judge by the company and the smiles. My old scoutmaster dad wouldn't have known what to make of it.

Next a rally of cyclists comes whizzing past, scores of them, with an ambulance in tow for any casualties. Are they rallying against the latest austerity measures, like other demonstrators today across the length of Iberia, we wonder. But signs of protest there are none. This lot is out for morning's fun.

A long line of 4x4s makes its way to a nearby arena for the final day of a 4x4 weekend. We've seen the tents and lights and heard the music. They are clearly having a great time. Benafim hasn't seen experienced such a whirl of activity in years - summer's final fling.

For rain is on the horizon. We hope in vain that a few of the promised showers will fall on us. But they are few and far between. Jones's long-range picture shows as close as they come - not close enough! Rain is forecast for next week. Lord knows, we need it.

Down to Quinta do Lago for a walk along the causeway that runs from the resort through the nature reserve to the far end of the runway at Faro airport. It's a popular route for walkers and cyclists, as well as bird-watchers who take up position in the hides overlooking the tidal ponds.

The walk takes us between the golf course and the tidal mud flats. When the tide is in, walkers have to borrow the edge of the raised fairway to get past. When it's out, they behold the thousands of little crabs that stare crookedly back in return, scuttling to the safety of their holes when people pass too close for comfort.

Rolf's picture gives one a better idea of the location. This is one of Europe's premier resorts. There's no finer place for a coastal walk or a game of golf. I stop to assist a golfer to find his missing ball. I must have recovered a dozen down the years. Most of them were probably his, the golfer tells me.

Rolf himself walks with a curious and tireless lope. He is exceptionally long-legged and strides along like one of those mechanical monsters in Avatar. Although he gives the appearance of going slowly, his companions find themselves hurrying to stay up.

It takes the best part of an hour to reach the far end of the causeway. On either side are marshy ponds brimming with bird-life, and in the distance white mountains of salt, waiting to be loaded and bagged. Much of it is used in swimming pools and water softeners.

We try to photograph the planes taking off from Faro airport. But the sun is blinding and there's nothing to be seen in the camera screen other than one's own squinting face. I had to crop this picture a bit. Even so, it isn't a bad effort. Yes, that's Cathy again.

And here's Jones's arty picture, the ribby skeleton of a once proud boat, A noble vehicle for conveying fishermen to sea is reduced to an artwork at the mercy of the elements it braved. There's a story to be told. (That's enough poetic sentiments!) At the end of the walk lies Faro

beach and the Eléctrico, a favourite stop. The word means "tram"; until it burned down, the snack-bar was housed in an old tram. Its sandwiches (ham and cheese), whether fresh or toasted, are unbeatable. Across the estuary, planes rush down the runway to launch themselves skywards.

Beside us a large table is set for more serious diners, who have obviously arranged in advance for such a meal to be served. We speculate about why just a single woman is present among the group of men. They sound like sophisticated Lisbonites, down on holiday.

Around the corner the proprietor grills their fish on the fire in traditional fashion. It's said to taste best off the coals and at many restaurants, a member of staff can still be seen in the courtyard, doing the grills in time-honoured manner.

When it comes to grilling fish, Rolf is a dab hand himself. He visits the fish market in Loule to select tuna steaks that he's happy to prepare over the stove or fire, lightly grilled on both sides. They melt in the mouth, served on bread with his excellent salads.

A neighbour, Ana, comes round with husband, Vitor, and family to collect almonds from the trees. We have far more than can use. Almonds are an important ingredient of the spectacular cakes that Ana makes. She bakes, ices and sells them to order in all shapes, colours and sizes.

One evening we watched the sunset from the beacon 200 metres above us on the summit of Espargal hill. From here on a clear day one can see nearly forever - from Monchique in the west to beyond Faro in the east. Peace descends on our bit of the world. For such blessings, we offer libations to the gods.

As I'm late, having stayed behind to feed the dogs, I arrive at the beacon by tractor. With darkness falling, we descend the steep track, Jones nervously clutching the safety rail. We encourage the wild vegetation that covers the track as it in turn discourages motorcyclists who like to hurtle around the countryside.

This is a Jones sunrise. Dawn is her time of day. It's a time I prefer to spend in bed as I generally wake fourish for a while before falling heavily asleep again. Coffee and toast arrive at 7.30, along with the dogs waiting to be walked. Wet muzzles come poking under the blanket.

Here's my wife at her morning desk. She has been making unsteady progress on the iPad, appreciating its usefulness while resenting the intrusion of such technology into her life. She's an old-fashioned lady, who prefers the feel of pen on paper. Even so, her touch typing on the iPad keyboard is

fast and precise.

Jones has been practising her close-ups on the new camera, trying to remember how to get to the appropriate settings. We discover that the camera has been programmed with animal face-recognition technology. (Yes, I know, this is a flower!)

Dubiously, we set it to photograph automatically any dog or cat face that comes into view. It works! Ono and Prickles find themselves being photographed each time they look at it. Extraordinary! I am reminded of the eye-recognition cameras in the film, Minority Report.

Prickles, an inveterate traveller, takes umbrage at the barking we get each time we pass the dogs at the bottom of the village. And he leaps up to express his outrage at the canine insults clearly being hurled at us. Prickles is not a dog to take things lying down.

As he explains, such impudent behaviour is really more than a dog can bear. When it comes to being cute, there are none cuter than Prickles. But he's equally adept at raising the middle claw and heading off into the wilderness. "Pricks' rules!" is his motto.

We retire to the upper patio for sundowners. Rolf and I appreciate a good whisky, served in a worthy glass. Cathy generally settles for a beer shandy "just one please or it goes to my head". Jones, need I say it, is a baggy lady - with a generous squeeze of lemon. It's the only way to finish the day.

Peering down on us is the crescent moon, rather harder to photograph than my excellent picture suggests. Enough has been written about the moon not to require any more from me. And anyhow, as I said, this week's blog is meant to be about the pictures.









Friday, September 14, 2012

Letter from Espargal: 31 of 2012

This week has been marked by arrivals. Natasha arrived on Monday to give a final shine to the place ahead of the arrival on Tuesday of my sister, Cathy, and husband Rolf, who flew in just before the arrival of another heat-wave on Wednesday.

“Our” German archaeologists have also arrived although they are working on a dig half an hour away until the end of September, when they come to Espargal.

So that’s enough arrivals to be getting on with.

Rolf joins us at 08.00 each morning on our trek through the hills while his wife stays behind for an hour’s peace and quiet. Although she is resisting her husband's attempts to convert her to the iPad, she is more than happy to catch up on the world and emails with an old-fashioned laptop.

Rolf is a serious walker, newly returned from a 10-day hike through the Alps. While the Algarve hills don’t compare with the Alpine crags, they are rather more accessible and do very nicely for a morning walk; Rolf has been suitably impressed.

Between outings, he has also

been of great assistance with the bringing in of the last of the carob crop while Cathy has been helping Jones with the daily watering of the garden. There’s no sign of rain; temps are still in the low 30s. I have found that they tend to fall markedly in the 2nd half of September into the mid-20s – my kind of weather.

But it’s not happening yet, in spite of the appearance of the African blood flower (paintbrush lily) that emerges from the ground each autumn as the weather changes. We are still taking water around to the mid-walk refreshment station for the benefit of the dogs and the bees (and wild pig!).

With the looming threat of a fuel strike by one of the major suppliers, I took the tractor into Benafim one afternoon to top up both its tank and my spare fuel containers. At the same time, I checked my tyres. (Tractor tyres are filled with water to give the vehicles greater weight – and run at much lower pressures than other tyres.)

JONES SKY: As I withdrew the air-pressure nozzle from a back tyre, the valve disintegrated and a jet of water spurted over the forecourt. Denis, the service station manager, managed to stem the flood. By screwing the valve cap back on, I was able to contain the leak while I crawled up the road to the tyre shop.

There Filipe jacked the tractor up and replaced both rear valves, soaking himself in the process, even though he whipped the old valves out and the new ones in with a flair born of long practice. I tipped him generously. A flat back tyre on a tractor is really bad news, especially if the tractor is stuck on a hillside.

On Tuesday morning, en route to the airport, we stopped in Loule to fetch our new spectacles. Jones is still getting to grips with her latest prescription. We both use “progressive” lenses. My new pair darkens in the sun sufficiently to relieve the fierce Algarve glare. I also have back-up sunglasses; Jones shuns them.

During a subsequent visit to Loule, I stopped at the shoe-cleaner’s stand on the pavement during an idle moment to get my (very dusty) boots shined.

The shoe-cleaner had all his gear neatly arranged on a piece of cloth, including an old metal cup full of water.

Into this he dipped a piece of sponge with which he carefully removed the dust from my boots, informing me that polish otherwise didn’t stick properly.

It took him all of 20 minutes to clean and shine my boots and a splendid job he did too. Although he had pointed to a sign saying €2.50 when I first sat down, he accepted the €5 note I offered him without proffering any change, and I didn’t quibble. It was certainly a €5 performance.

Jones couldn't resist the offer of "West Ham United" duvet covers at a local shop for €2 each. With the help of a neighbour, she has converted them into dog basket covers. They are very smart - for the moment at least - and the dogs certainly seem to be fans.

One morning we took Cathy and Rolf across to the site where a German archaeological team are once again at work, continuing their excavation of what appears to be a substantial Roman villa. To their frustration, the remains lie across the boundary of the neighbouring property, the owner of which has refused them permission to dig.

Even so, there’s plenty of villa to be found on the side they’re excavating. Following an historic find last year - a marble tablet with a Hebrew inscription that has aroused international interest - they have come across mainly ceramics so far this time round.

They showed us a number of fragments, readily identifying them as “Attica 4th century BC” and Spanish - and, when we looked dubious, explaining the distinctive colours and styles. They were looking forward to the arrival of a digger to remove the surface layers of soil and rocks above the next section to be explored.

Did you watch anything of the Paralympics? We saw very little, other than the efforts of the amazing blade-runners. What we did watch, however, was the closing ceremony. As with the finale of the Olympics a few weeks earlier, we were impressed by the colourfulness of the event and the sheer imagination of the producers.


Blog Archive