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Monday, October 23, 2017

Letter from Espargal: Sete Cidades: 23 October 2017

After three days in Furnas in the east of Sao Miguel, we trekked slowly around the north west perimeter of the island towards the village of Sete Cidades (Seven Cities). Like Furnas, the village sits in the crater of an extinct volcano. The rain run-off from the surrounding crater walls accumulates in a double lake, shaped like a figure of eight. The two parts are known as the Blue Lake and the Green Lake; the latter is full of algae.

LakeCraterWallsCloud

Our accommodation was a cabin on the lake shore, one of three on the property. It was completely framed in wooden slats, as though to merge with the trees. The interior was comfortable and modern.

Lodge

The garden was au naturel, pretty much left to its own devices. Besides the cabins was a house, also to rent. All four units were popular. We got in only because of a cancellation.

LodgeFro0nt

Sete Cidades is nothing much. The attractions are the lake and the scenery. We were advised that it was safe to go swimming but we declined. Neither did we see any other swimmers.

GirlBankLake

An extensive grassy verge beside the lake offers pleasant walks. From several kiosks dotted along the road one can hire canoes or arrange bird-watching. An info-kiosk encourages visitors to learn more about the ecology of the area.

TBgrassVerge

The village centre, just up the road, comprises a church, a tiny grocery and a couple of restaurants. Elsewhere there's a third restaurant and a home bakery - along with a couple of B&Bs and snack bars. That's about it.

churchAvenue

From the little grocer we obtained the bare necessities for picnic suppers.

TBgrocer

Much of the village was undeveloped. Across the road from us, cows grazed in fields ringed by electric lines.

MilkingCowsCU

The farmers would tow in mobile milking units to service the cows

MilkingUni

before transferring the milk to stainless steel tanks attached to their pick-ups.

PickupTank

These pick-ups were everywhere, with or without a farm dog escort.

PickupDog

One morning mist descended on the crater. But as soon as we reached the rim bright sunshine returned.

cloudOverCrater

Each morning we'd set out on minor expeditions to villages on the coast. This meant climbing the steep, twisting road to the crater rim and descending the far side. Twice we visited the thermal baths of Ferraria in the village of Ginetes.

TermasFerraria

The big attraction was a sea pool that was warmed by a strong thermal inflow at low tide.

HotPoolRopes

Dozens of bathers clung to ropes that were strung across the pool.

HotPoolCU

We declined to join them, partly because the approach across the volcanic rocks was so awkward. From the rocks, two ladders led down to the water.

HotPoolApproach

Instead, we made use of the thermal pool beside the spa a few hundred metres away. The water was delightfully warm.

#

The villages were attractive and the houses colourful.

GayHouses

Beyond them, the countryside reminded us of English fields - a green and pleasant land.

GreenFields

All over the island, the roads were hedged by hydrangea shrubs, often a couple of metres in height.

TBHydrangeas

Each village supported a small harbour, used mainly by fishermen.

FishingBoat

The next stop after the island is Boston - although fleets of turbo props connect Sao Miguel with the other Azores islands.

BJlookout

We left Sete Cidades by the upper road that runs spectacularly along a central ridge from which both the northern and southern shores of the island are visible.

SeaRidge

Our final day was spent in Ponta Delgada at an hotel overlooking the marina.

harbour

We made our way to the top of the city where a fine garden, open to the public, surrounds the palace of the governor of the Azores.

PontaDelgadaGardens

It's notable mainly for its great variety of trees from all parts of the world,

TBtree

And here ends our island holiday. easyJet flew us back to Lisbon early the next morning and the express train brought us home. Our house sitters, who did a wonderful job, have returned to the UK - and life to normal.

BJtree

 

 

 

 

 

Letter from Espargal: 22 October 2017

After a delightful week in Madeira, we boarded a Bombadier turbo-prop at Funchal airport for a flight to Ponta Delgada on the Azores island of Sao Miguel - about two hours north west.

BombadierTB

Our immediate destination was the Terra Nostra garden hotel in the resort town of Furnas - well-known for its thermal baths. The town lies at the heart of a volcanic crater in the east of the island, about an hour by road from Ponta Delgada.

Hotel

The hotel was constructed in the 30s in Art Deco style, and later extended. It is full of alcoves and corners with appropriate furniture although I never saw them occupied.

TBbjArtDeco

Most guests come for the large thermal pool that is situated close by in the extensive and fabulous hotel gardens. Pool and gardens are open to hotel guests at all hours and to the public from 10.00 to sundown.

PoolPeople

We swam morning and evening. The water temperature was about C40*, depending on which corner of the pool you occupied, and uniformly brown. Bathers can't see a thing in the water, which they share with visiting ducks, geese and swans.

Swan

The ducks would dive to graze or to escape one another's attentions. They too were clearly blind down below for one of them surfaced directly underneath me, to the great surprise of us both.

Ducks

At about 1.5m the pool is shallow enough for people to stand on the rough stone bottom. The water promptly turned my beard red - the colour is used to be - although the tint didn't last.

IMG_3222

Beyond the pool stretch the botanical gardens - about a square mile of ponds, trees, shrubs and flowers, divided into numerous sections and carefully tended. One of the these is the cycad garden - below.

BJgarden

The garden demands several hours to be appreciated. Below, Jonesy inspects the topiary.

BJtopiary.jpg

Steam rises from the hot stream flowing through the gardens.

BJhotStream

Ponds abound. Stepping stone crossings await the agile and the foolish.

TBsteppingStones

Jones would stop frequently to send pictures of extraordinary trees to my sister, Cathy, who has been studying varieties for some time.

BJtreeBig

About a kilometre away at the other end of the town were several caldeiras, collapsed volcanic cones in which water boiled fiercely day and night. Restaurants lower pots into smaller vents to prepare a local meat and veggie dish.

BJcaldeira

Unlike Madeira, Sao Miguel is the scene of intensive dairy farming. One sees large tractors, often pulling even larger trailers, everywhere on the island's impressive roads.

Tractors2

Cows graze in numerous small fields.

Cows

The fields extend to the very edge of the cliffs that fall sharply into the sea.

Viewpoint2

We enjoyed three days in and around Furnas. Thence to Sete Cidades, a lakeside village in another volcanic crater at the western end of the island.

 

 

Tuesday, October 17, 2017

Letter from Espargal: 17 October 2017

Our second stop in Madeira was at the Albatroz hotel that is situated immediately below the runway at Funchal airport. The gardens are superb. Funchal, the capital, itself lies 30 minutes away.

TBAlbatrozArrival

The hotel - officially the Albatroz Yacht Club - is squeezed into a peninsula of land between the highway and the sea. The British-born Portuguese manager has a cut-glass accent and the hotel has all the atmosphere of a colonial club.

AlbatrozGArdens

From the hotel we would walk 20 minutes along the seafront to the little town of Santa Cruz. The battered remains of a marina bear testimony to the ferocity of a storm that hit the island some years ago.

MarinaRemains

Santa Cruz offers holiday makers a few restaurants and shops and an excellent bus service around the island. It has no beaches. As everywhere in Madeira, volcanic shingles line the coast. But the flowers and some of the old houses are spectacular.

SantaCruzBougainvilleas

The runway is barely 100 metres from the hotel although guests are shielded from most of the engine noise. From the gates one can watch approaching aircraft swooping low over Santa Cruz as they come in to land. Cross winds are a serious problem and can close the airport for hours or even days.

PlaneLanding

We vied to take the best aircraft pictures. Here a Tui flight lines up for take-off just beyond the hotel entrance.

TuiTakeOff

The runway is approximately two miles long - half of it carved out of the hillside and the other half subsequently constructed on scores of pillars. The main road runs below the runway. Our hotel is located (centre-left) among the trees on the little peninsula.

FunchalAirport

Our daily routine was breakfast on the patio -

BJalbatrozBreakfast

followed by a swim in the larger of the hotel's two sea pools. As in Porto Moniz, these pools were constantly refreshed by waves. We shared them morning and evening with one or two other couples. Most guests were content to use the fresh-water pool in the garden.

TBpool

To reach the sea pool, we had to descend 73 steps. While I managed the descents without a pause, I found the ascents rather more demanding. I would pause to admire the views while Jones skipped merrily upwards.

TBpoolVLS

One morning we booked ourselves on a levada walk that took us several hours along a path that wound through villages on our eastern flank.

TBLevadaGroup2

The steep terraces that line the hill-sides testify to generations of subsistence agriculture. Not an available square foot is left untilled. Although most hamlets are now served by road, there are still some whose inhabitants have to climb flights of steps to reach their houses. Centre-pic below is the snack bar at the end of our walk and the mini-buses waiting to take us home.

LevadaTerraces

Below us stretched the town of Machico, Madeira's former capital, and now a bustling container port.

LevadaMachico

In the evenings, we either supped in Santa Cruz -

SantaCruzSupper

or picnicked on our balcony.

BJRailingSky

The daily ferry from Funchal to the neighbouring island of Porto Santo - two hours away - cruised past our window. It's further out to sea than the picture might indicate.

PortoSantoFerry

The sunsets were pretty spectacular -

Sunset

And so were the moon rises.

SeaMoon

Next, a flight to the Azores island of Sao Miguel.

 

 

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