Letter from Espargal: Sete Cidades: 23 October 2017

After three days in Furnas in the east of Sao Miguel, we trekked slowly around the north west perimeter of the island towards the village of Sete Cidades (Seven Cities). Like Furnas, the village sits in the crater of an extinct volcano. The rain run-off from the surrounding crater walls accumulates in a double lake, shaped like a figure of eight. The two parts are known as the Blue Lake and the Green Lake; the latter is full of algae.



Our accommodation was a cabin on the lake shore, one of three on the property. It was completely framed in wooden slats, as though to merge with the trees. The interior was comfortable and modern.



The garden was au naturel, pretty much left to its own devices. Besides the cabins was a house, also to rent. All four units were popular. We got in only because of a cancellation.



Sete Cidades is nothing much. The attractions are the lake and the scenery. We were advised that it was safe to go swimming but we declined. Neither did we see any other swimmers.



An extensive grassy verge beside the lake offers pleasant walks. From several kiosks dotted along the road one can hire canoes or arrange bird-watching. An info-kiosk encourages visitors to learn more about the ecology of the area.



The village centre, just up the road, comprises a church, a tiny grocery and a couple of restaurants. Elsewhere there's a third restaurant and a home bakery - along with a couple of B&Bs and snack bars. That's about it.



From the little grocer we obtained the bare necessities for picnic suppers.



Much of the village was undeveloped. Across the road from us, cows grazed in fields ringed by electric lines.



The farmers would tow in mobile milking units to service the cows



before transferring the milk to stainless steel tanks attached to their pick-ups.



These pick-ups were everywhere, with or without a farm dog escort.



One morning mist descended on the crater. But as soon as we reached the rim bright sunshine returned.



Each morning we'd set out on minor expeditions to villages on the coast. This meant climbing the steep, twisting road to the crater rim and descending the far side. Twice we visited the thermal baths of Ferraria in the village of Ginetes.



The big attraction was a sea pool that was warmed by a strong thermal inflow at low tide.



Dozens of bathers clung to ropes that were strung across the pool.



We declined to join them, partly because the approach across the volcanic rocks was so awkward. From the rocks, two ladders led down to the water.



Instead, we made use of the thermal pool beside the spa a few hundred metres away. The water was delightfully warm.



The villages were attractive and the houses colourful.



Beyond them, the countryside reminded us of English fields - a green and pleasant land.



All over the island, the roads were hedged by hydrangea shrubs, often a couple of metres in height.



Each village supported a small harbour, used mainly by fishermen.



The next stop after the island is Boston - although fleets of turbo props connect Sao Miguel with the other Azores islands.



We left Sete Cidades by the upper road that runs spectacularly along a central ridge from which both the northern and southern shores of the island are visible.



Our final day was spent in Ponta Delgada at an hotel overlooking the marina.



We made our way to the top of the city where a fine garden, open to the public, surrounds the palace of the governor of the Azores.



It's notable mainly for its great variety of trees from all parts of the world,



And here ends our island holiday. easyJet flew us back to Lisbon early the next morning and the express train brought us home. Our house sitters, who did a wonderful job, have returned to the UK - and life to normal.