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Friday, August 25, 2017

Letter from Espargal: 25 August 2017

JonesEclips

With all the fuss over the eclipse in America this week, Jones decided to do a little eclipsing of her own. Not bad eh? We watched TV coverage of the event and were duly impressed. Jones confided that one day she wanted to experience a full solar eclipse for herself. As you might know, she's into the heavens in a big way. I said I'd see see what I could do to make her dreams come true, given a little heavenly cooperation.

BJgardenBarrow

This blog does little other than meander around an unremarkable few days and the creatures that have occupied them. Sometimes, that's just the way things are.

TBcarobs1

Between studying the heavenly orbs and the usual chores, Jones has spent a lot of time collecting carobs - as I have. By now most of the beans have released themselves from the branches and fallen to the ground. If the undergrowth has been cleared beforehand, as it ought, it's just a case of picking up the beans - taking care to avoid thuggish thorns, antagonistic ants and dodgy dog turds. Jones crouches to gather the carobs around her; I could as soon crouch as glide, so I kneel or use a gripper. The latter works well but is slow, like driving a car stuck in first gear.

TBcarobsOno

Collecting carobs is a time-consuming business. The only machines that will do the job are human hands. It takes a couple of hours to fill a 30kg tub, for which the miller pays 9 euros. So it's not a quick way to get rich. On the other hand, it's an activity that passes the time, stretches the body, brings an inexplicable sense of achievement and reminds us how our ancestors had to earn a living. Note Ono, my chief hanger-on, in the background. These days he seldom leaves my side.

OnoStairs

At 17 the old fellow is finding life tough; his joints creak, his limbs are stiff and cataracts mar his vision. Descending the stairs has become a hazardous business for him, the more so as he tries to leap down the lower treads. One of us needs to be on hand to guide and restrain him. And he's sleeping badly at night, disturbing us as he tosses & turns, goes for a drink of water or heads downstairs for a pee.

BathroomTrio
FOLLOWERS IN THE BATHROOM
During the day he dogs my heels, following me from room to room or into the garden. Mini, my other faithful follower, is bidding to dislodge Ono from our affections. Long gone are the days when I might expect to have the bathroom or loo to myself. As I often remark to Jones, it's not easy being a deity. Not that we begrudge Ono any of this. He's family and what we do for him, millions of parents and carers do for their charges every day.

DogsEating2

Another canine time-consumer is Barri - far right - whom we are trying to wean off hand-feeding sessions twice a day. At times she tucks into her food with the others. At others she just sniffs her plate and turns up her nose although she's perfectly happy to be fed and always loves her treats. We can't figure out what the problem is - whether she's just having us on or whether it's tied in with the hip dysplasia that blights her life. She's the only dog that looks into my eyes and knows me - that's apart from Mary - Mary whom we still miss so. I hope dogs are allowed into heaven!

SouthGardenGARDEN SCENE
Slavic and I continue to work on the garden paths and borders while Jones sets about her plants. At lunchtime I fill the bird-feeder with a mixture of seed and cat biscuits, the latter intended for the azure-winged magpies.

Magpie-001

The seed bowl sits in a water bowl to keep the ants at bay. From the lunch table we watch our avian visitors as they swoop down to squabble over the booty.  The doves will seldom share the plate, not even with one another. The magpies, on the other hand, will gather around in threes and fours.

DovesBirdFeeder

The sparrows are the most convivial feeders, when the doves will give them a look in. There are more spectacular birds in the area including hoopoes, golden orioles and bee eaters but it's rare to see any of them around the house, ditto the shy black birds, our songsters.

DovesSparrowsBirdFeeder-001

On the song front, top of the pops is an evening serenade by little owls. At sunset that’s close to magic. On a still evening, with a glass of wine for company, with the dogs laid out like shadows on the cobbles, it is magic. I hope the birds all keep their heads down because the hunting season has just got underway and there are birds on the menu.

TBpatioWine

Inside the house, the orphans have made themselves at home on the couch, a cool, comfortable retreat at a time when cool spots are much sought after. Even Jones complains that she is sick and tired of being hot and sweaty, which is like a polar bear moaning that the water's cold.

OrphansCouch

We eagerly anticipate the lower temps that are promised us next week, possibly even with a shower or two. As if in testimony, the first ornithagalums, autumn's harbingers, have appeared in the park.

ornithagalumORNITHAGALUM
One night I dreamed that three of our dogs were standing on a wooden platform that a huge crane lifted far into the air and deposited I know not where. So I called the other dogs and went in search of the missing trio. After evading a group of walkers with their own dogs I somehow landed up in a labyrinthine building from which I couldn't find an exit. (This is a common dream of mine.)

BlackCat

As I wandered the corridors I asked lots of people how to get out and they all directed me helpfully one way or another, but never to an exit. One woman gave me such excellent directions that I told her she should be in public relations. Consciousness came as a relief, as it generally does. My dreams do me few favours.

PostsRedBerries-001

Another evening I met Ricardo, a nurse, who spoke excellent English. He confided as he stuck a needle in my arm that he had acquired his fluency during the years he had worked in a hospital in Bournemouth. Why had he returned, I wanted to know. "Brexit," he replied, as though that explained everything. Thursday's UK news bulletins highlight the stream of EU nationals leaving Britain as bumbling politicians squabble and sterling sinks steadily towards parity with the euro.

XE GBP EUR Currency Chart. British Pound to Euro Rates - Mozilla Firefox 8252017 114815 AM

It's not uhuru that's coming up as the Brexiteers make out, but Christmas and, sadly, not only the turkeys are about to be plucked!

Sunset

Friday, August 18, 2017

Letter from Espargal: 18 August 2017

DSCN8043
ANOTHER SCORCHER IN PROSPECT
All I can offer you after a hot gungy week is a sweaty mish mash of murky miscellania, a battered basket of tatty bric-a-brac. It's a week in which Portugal has endured hundreds more wild-fire outbreaks - 268 according to one TV report. Our temps have ranged from the mid to the high 30s. It is with envy that we have noted accounts of rain in other parts of the world - Sierra Leone excluded.

SlavicFigTreeWall

To escape the worst of the heat, Slavic has been starting his Saturday morning labours at 07.00. Our first task was to revive a distressed fig tree by removing the paving that had enclosed it and renewing the surrounding earth. A low decorative low wall put the finishing touches to the project. The tree has been losing its leaves in spite of extensive watering. I hope it rewards our efforts.

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SIDE VIEW
The harder task was to retrieve a substantial tree stump from an adjacent field and convey it on the tractor to the pen, where it was destined to become a natural sculpture. We had to walk the stump across the low boulders (on the left, below) in order to position it, before building up the stone foundations and admiring our efforts.

SculptureFrontView
FRONT VIEW
We rather liked the results. As I informed Slavic, were I an artist of note, I might have sold it for vast sums (although any buyer would have had a devil of a job to remove it). More to the point, Jones - who had wanted something sculptural there - pronounced herself well pleased. Several other tree stumps with sculptural potential remain in the field. (For some reason, my left big toe was unhappy.)

BobbyRock
BOBBY IS A HANDSOME FELLOW, WHO'S HAPPY TO POSE
Apropos of nothing, I sent a phone message to a neighbour, Anneke, concerning a lift for herself and her partner, Nicoline, who happens to be a smoker. But my phone, with a mind of its own, changed her name to Nicotine - an alteration that I didn't spot until after the event - and which caused me (and them) a great deal of mirth. We have grown used to phones that correct their users but a phone with a sly sense of humour is something else.

IMG_2336
ONO, 17 YEARS OLD &  SLOWING BUT STILL GAME
At our Sunday brunch gatherings we try each week to resolve at least one important international issue. Just to get the conversation going I raised the topical question of breast-feeding in public. Was it acceptable, I asked the group.  "Why not?" responded my companions in unison. Well, that was that resolved. As you can see, we don't mess around. Next week we'll deal with North Korea or maybe global warming. (My big toe is really miserable.)

England-Rugby
YUP, THEM'S GALS
I watched England's amazons mauling some unfortunate Italian lassies who thought rugby was supposed to be a gentlemanly game. Gotta say the girls played terrific rugby in the ladies'(?) world champs - no holds barred.  I wonder what the Saudis would make of it!  So much for that baloney about the weaker sex!

Hoya
THE HOYA IN FLOWER
Monday: I made an appointment with Jodi in Alte to inspect my ailing toe. (She has recently undergone a specialist course on foot care to add to her physiotherapy skills.) After reporting that the toe was both inflamed and infected - the result of some over-enthusiastic nail cutting in Benafim - she set to work with a probe. Ouch! But I think she's done the trick. I've bought new sandals to ease the pressure on it.

MadeiraTree

Tuesday: Portugal enjoyed a public holiday to celebrate the feast of the Assumption of Mary. In my (distant) days as a Marist Brother, it was a feast that the community observed with some devotion - as if to substantiate the credentials of our patroness. From Madeira at lunch time came tragic news that a giant tree, an ancient hollow oak, had toppled over, crushing worshippers taking part in an outdoor ceremony.

TreeFall

Thirteen people died and scores were injured. The village, Monte, on the slopes above Funchal, is one we know well. I couldn't help thinking that there was sometimes a case for divine intervention! But it also occurred to me that if God had to intervene in human affairs, He would be hard pressed to know where to start.

BenafimPicnicTree

Speaking of oaks, here's a splendid one, a tree that offers shade to half a dozen picnic tables in Benafim's official picnic park. We stopped there briefly to give the dogs leg lifters.

HelenParty2

Tuesday evening: Neighbours gave Jonesy a lift to the birthday celebrations of friends who live in the hills half an hour away. I nobly stayed home to water the garden and look after the household. To mark the occasion, the gang presented Helen (turning all of 40; how old can you get?) with the solar lamp (below).

SolarLamp

The lamp can be turned on and off  with a remote zapper and can be set for either (bright, medium or low) white or yellow light. We gave one to neighbours on a previous occasion and it has been a decided hit.

SlavicFrontSteps2

Wednesday: Slavic, who had a day off from his usual employment, worked for us instead. On arrival he waters the fruit trees and plants in our fields next door while we walk the dogs. Then he rides side-saddle with me on the tractor to a nearby carob plantation, whose owner is happy for us to remove rocks from his property - the more the better.

SlavicFrontSteps

These rocks are everywhere piled up into great heaps by bulldozers that first cleared the land. Wednesday's task was to construct more low walls along the steps that lead down from the cobbles to the pedestrian gate at the bottom of the garden. As a result of our efforts these past few weeks, the lower garden is looking most attractive.

SmokyValley

Thursday: We woke to a smoke-filled valley and the stink of wild fires. The bombeiros said the pollution wasn't local but had come drifting down from fires raging up north. The government has proclaimed a state of emergency - that will free up funds - ahead of scorching temperatures and high winds forecast for the weekend.

MonchiqueSmokySky
SMOKY SKY OVER MONCHIQUE MOUNTAIN
We went into Faro to get some essential information from the department dealing with expats but as we didn't have an appointment, no-one would talk to us. So, after standing around hopefully for 15 minutes like statues in Charlottesville, trying vainly to get someone's attention, we came home again, none the wiser - and watered the garden instead. Welcome to Portugal,  poised uncomfortably between the electronic age and the stone age!

BJwateringGarden

I leave you with The Portugal News, a local English newspaper intended for expats, well known for its famously optimistic front pages. For its income it relies on advertising and for its content on the Portuguese media, which it retails in (frequently suspect) English. Free copies may be found in supermarkets and at the airport, presumably to make up numbers. The paper's editor has an unflinching determination to emphasise anticipated good news, no matter how remote and dubious. Judge for yourselves!

PortNews

Fire in the sky! Another smoky day dawns. Stay cool!

FierySunrise-001

 

 

Saturday, August 12, 2017

Letter from Espargal: 11 August 2017

CloudyDawn
HOT SUN RISES
Last weekend we made our annual pilgrimage to the parish fund-raising party - the Benafim Corn Festival, highlight of the summer season and an occasion we never miss. And since there's not much to report, you might as well get to meet a few of the characters.

AnitaChloe
CORN FESTIVAL
"We", in this instance, was the Bensons and our neighbours, the Masseys. Pictured above - down from Dublin - are Massey daughter, Anita, and her niece, Chloe. More Masseys follow. (Feel free to scroll up if you're not in the mood to meet people.)

BenafimFestaGroup

We settle ourselves around tables on the cobbles that slope down to the community centre and the dance floor.  There's a choice of wine, beer and soft drinks to accompany either the traditional maize porridge (my preference), salads or barbecued chicken. Dress code is relaxed. As long as you wear something, it doesn't matter what. As ever, the ladies tend to take more care with their choice of garb than the lads.

FintanJug

This is Fintan (daddy Massey), arriving with a jug of sangria. The concoction didn't meet with universal approval, prompting wrinkled noses and pursed lips. I can't tell you why. There was certainly nothing wrong with the wine and the beer. What was a problem was the occasional, unpredictable gust of wind that sent our plastic cups and their contents flying across the tables.

BJpauline

After each gust we'd clutch our cups for a few minutes and then forgetfully put them back on the table. Three times Barbara's red wine narrowly missed her skirt. She was just proclaiming her good fortune when it got her with another gust. (Fortunately, the stains washed out!) Here she exchanges some thoughts with Pauline (momma Massey).

TBluisWifeSelina

The festa is a mighty convivial affair. Come to say hello were - right to left - Selina (daughter of Manuel & Graça, who run the nearby Hamburgo restaurant), Luis (who assists Manuel) and Luis's wife (Marisa). The Hamburgo, as you may have gathered, is at the centre of our social lives. We hardly know what to do with ourselves when it shuts its doors for a winter break.

FintanPaulineChloe

Selina (in the red dress above), like Chloe (right) is an ace social media exponent. Chloe's thumbs piston up and down on her mobile phone keyboard like a couple of sewing machine needles. She can even text one-handed with her phone in her pocket. From her I learned a great deal about Snapchat, Instagram and other apps that are apparently integral to the lives of every wifi-wired, smartphone-equipped teenager.

AnitaHat

Anita is another accomplished iPhone exponent. She has the gift of mixing easy charm and discretion so that companions are aware of the former rather than the latter. It's possible to enjoy a pleasant evening's conversation with her, only to realise later that you're none the wiser as to whether she's a model, a mechanic or a hospital matron. Somewhere along the lines at the festa, she acquired a hat. Wish the camera were half as kind to me.

BenafimFestaDance2

On the patio below us, a crooner belted out popular songs and folks did a little old-fashioned whirling around. As always, there were more gals than guys on the dance floor so the girls simply danced with one another. If the evenings have been perfect for partying, the days have been cooked up in hell as Portugal sweltered on the fringes of the Lucifer heatwave that has stifled southern Europe.

MelloSwim

The mornings have been just tolerable. In the afternoons I've had a fixed appointment with the air conditioner in the study - the dogs sprawled supine around me. Jones says she feels cooler if she works in the garden. With luck, the worst of the weather is behind us. It's almost time to look forward to our coming holiday in the Portuguese islands although the weather news there hasn't been encouraging.

FunchalLanding
YES, IT'S TRYING TO LAND
For three days high winds semi-closed (Madeira's) Funchal airport - considered one of the world's most demanding - stranding some 15,000 travellers. Departing passengers were being transferred several hours by ship to the neighbouring island of Porto Santo, whose small airport was still operating.

Azores

We're also planning a few days in the Azores, undeterred by the gale that shut down our departure airport last time. On that occasion passengers were taken in a corkscrewing ferry across to an adjacent island with an airport in the lee of the wind.  The flight that followed was almost as hairy as the boat ride!

ButterflyWS

Changing tack: In the centre of the picture you may see a most beautiful butterfly that Jones spotted clinging to a flower in her garden, and hastened to photograph. It's wings were folded together so she couldn't get a full shot.

ButterflyCU

Judging by similar pictures on the internet, it would appear to be the Scarce Swallowtail, also known as the Pear-Tree Swallowtail. What a gorgeous creature! I reflect often on the irony that some creatures need to be ugly or, at least, plain in order that others may be beautiful.

Homeward BoundHOMEWARD BOUND
Barbara found Portuguese neighbours deeply upset midweek when she went round to fetch the cheese and bread delivery that they take in on our behalf. A  day after their bull terrier bitch had given birth to seven puppies, she consumed the entire litter. The shocked neighbours had no explanation. They had endeavoured not to interfere with the pups, which the mother had moved once or twice. From my subsequent reading on the internet I gather that the phenomenon is not uncommon.

ArmenioMelonBJ

Another neighbour, Armenio, to whom we give our carobs, arrived at our gates one evening with a load of melons, grapes and tomatoes. He told us about events in his orchard (just beyond the village) where a heavily-laden bough had broken away from a huge old plum tree - one whose fruits we have enjoyed in the past. This windfall delighted the wild boar that have been raiding the orchard nightly by the light of the moon.

AlgarveMoon

The visitors have not only scooped up the plums lying on the ground but have also stripped the tree of all the fruit within reach. Between the pigs and the birds, not a lot has been left to humans. Let me add that after 15 years of walking the hills, we've yet to come across wild boar during the day - although others have, and we have seen a couple on the road at night!

Enough unto the week!

SunsetDramatic
JONES SUNSET FROM THE HILLTOP ONE CLOUDY EVENING

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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