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Saturday, March 28, 2020

Letter from Espargal: 27 March 2020

EspargalClouds
DOWNTOWN ESPARGAL
Hello from Espargal. This is another reverse blog. It starts on Thursday and staggers back towards the beginning of the week. Thursday is my busiest day. Slavic arrives at 8.30 and we get down to work. A few weeks ago, as we were labouring in the park, I offered him €10 euros if he succeeded in flattening a rock that protruded awkwardly near the base of the tractor ramps leading to an upper terrace.

SlavicDigRocki

On Thursday Slavic took up the challenge with a large hammer. When he set to work,  he discovered that the rock was independent rather than part of a slab as we'd thought. So he sought to prise it out instead. The first job was to clear the surrounding soil. Then I reversed the tractor up against the rock to raise it bit by bit while Slavic tossed in smaller rocks to underpin it.

SlavicHugeRock

Eventually we managed to manoeuvre the rock on to the tractor box and went hunting for a spot to unload it. I'm trying not to make this sound any easier than it proved. The only way to get rid of the rock was to drive the tractor up a steep bank and then lever it off again with assistance from gravity. Unloading it proved almost as hard as loading had. It was - it is - a very substantial rock.

JonesOnRock

With much effort (on the part Slavic and the tractor) it was done. After our walk I took Jones down to the terrace to demonstrate the magnitude of our achievement. She was duly impressed. And, of course, I paid Slavic the additional €10 euros I'd promised him. It will be a pleasure to use the ramp without having to dodge around or bounce over the rock (which liked to conceal itself amidst the greenery).

ParkHalfStrimmed

Most of the work day went into the continuing task of clearing the area within 50 metres of the house as a fire precaution. We use the path leading to the upper gate as the dividing line. The (now petal-free) asphodel stalks and leafy alexanders still inhabit the right hand side in their thousands. Summer lurks just around the corner.

GateFlowersMini

Wednesday we went shopping for groceries. Before leaving the car we check the length of the queues outside the supermarkets. Then we take cloths dampened from a bottle of Dettol disinfectant, to carefully wipe shopping cart handles and anything else that offers, as well as our hands, at frequent intervals. These are scary times and we confess to being scared.

JonesMakesFire

After a spell of rain, our days have been sunny and cloudy by turns, often with a cold wind and generally just cool enough to warrant a fire at night. Most days I jump (well, "clamber" if you insist) into the jacuzzi after our walks. Jones joins me in the evenings. As we lie back, the world recedes.

JacuzziTreeTops

The village dogs provide an intermittent chorus, with a descant from the birds. Beyond the patio railings, the tops of the trees rustle in the breeze like touselled hair. It's very restful. So is watching the clouds performing a slow-motion ballet overhead.  One afternoon they formed a remarkably accurate outline of Europe, and another of north America, as though mirroring the continents below.

BJalgibreFlowing

After the recent rain, we drove down to the Algibre to  watch the river flowing once again. We are promised more rain again next week. Let it fall, ye weather gods, let it fall! Climate change is doing us no favours. We need every drop we can get. We have just topped 400 mm for the season with barely a hopeful rain month to go.

Alte

Once or twice a week we head to Alte for a back tune-up from Jodi. That's me rather than Jones. The village has gone into hibernation. The snack bar and restaurant doors are firmly shut. Hardly a soul stirs. A sign at the village entrance bans the tourist jeeps that used to stop over there with their lightly-clad, sunburned occupants for coffee and cake. (Our maid at the Quinta, Maria, used to call them "the salmons" because of their ominously deep pink hue.)

TBchairMini

For the rest, we have gradually adopted a (semi) self-isolating pattern of behaviour. The morning walk is followed by coffee and a biscuit - in my case more often consumed with encouragement from Mini. Afterwards, I generally settle down at the computer. Jones does her thing in the garden. After lunch, a siesta, an hour in the garden, another walk, a baggy and supper. If nothing offers on TV, we fall back on Netflix. And so it goes.

BobbyFlowers

Now is Friday afternoon. Time to go to press. Jones is rescuing a moth. (If it's not a moth, it's a spider.) The British royal family is proving as vulnerable to Covid-19 as the country's leaders. The dogs are looking hopeful. Guess I'd better get going.

TBdogsWalk-001

Saturday, March 21, 2020

Letter from Espargal: 20 March 2020

JacuzziRain

Today I'm going  backwards, which may be no bad thing given the mess that going forward has got the world into. It's Friday. I've barely started the blog. It's raining. In fact it's raining hard. This is very welcome because we're desperate for rain. It's also thundering and lightninging, which is the price we're paying for the rain.

BJbarriFoot

Barri hates the thunder. It terrifies her and she hardly knows where to turn. Barbara has sat down with her in an attempt to calm her down. That's my sandalled foot from the recliner. I was about to go off (in the downpour) to Jodi to get my toenails cut. For some years they have been beyond my reach.

MelloFire

It's quite cold. Mello loves sitting by the fire.

DearheartF9ire

That's when one of the cats hasn't claimed it.

SlavicTractorAlexanders

Thursday Slavic and Natasha came to work. Slavic spent most of the day cutting down the alexanders and strimming the section of the park closest to the house. Regulations say you have to clear the perimeter for a distance of 50 metres.

DogsGrassRocks

The dogs made themselves comfortable among the rocks to observe our labours. You can see how how the vinca has made merry over the winter in spite of the drought.

TractorDriverDog
FARMER WE PASSED IN THE VILLAGE
Wednesday we drove up the motorway to take supplies and medication to friends who are ill. They had received a letter from the Finanças saying that their car tax was overdue. I tried to pay it online but the Finanças site rejected the passwords the friends gave me.

FinancasClosed
ATTENDANCE ONLY BY PRIOR APPOINTMENT
So we drove to the Finanças office in nearby Tavira to sort it out. The doors were locked, with a sign saying only by appointment. When an official emerged to let another customer in, we confided our plight to him. "Sorry," he told us dismissively,  "but we're all suffering!", as if letting us in would have added to his sufferings. So we trailed disconsolately back to the car half a mile away. Eventually we managed to obtain the name of our friends' accountant and resolve the problem with her assistance. (She had changed the original passwords!)

SlavicPally
JUST FRIENDS
Tuesday Slavic came again (still going backwards, remember!) He told us where we could find the spare part that was the probable cause of the microwave oven's failure. So we got hold of it and he fitted it. We tested the oven out on the patio. Brilliant! It worked. Well, it worked until we fitted the device back in the kitchen and hooked it up. Maybe it's the plug that's faulty. We have to pull the fridge out to get at the plug. It will wait.

ShopsQueue

Monday there was no English lesson. There was virtually no nothing apart from Covid-19 madness, announcements, warnings, appeals, exhortations. Loule hospital cancelled a check-up appointment I'd made. We did some grocery shopping. Nearly all the non-food shops were shut. A line of shoppers, keeping themselves the required metre apart, straggled towards the entrance of the hypermarket.

NakedManOrchid
JONES NAKED MAN ORCHID
The rest of the week has vanished into the rolling mists of time or, possibly, of dotage. It's hard to know which, these days. Unless carefully recorded, the days and weeks run together like wet paints.

HatPatched

One thing I recall was the two hours it took me to sew a new band around one of my disintegrating Tilley hats. I was quite proud of my handiwork. It might not meet Parisian fashion standards but it will serve to keep the sun off my head for another season. I was never into fashion.

964375a3-64b3-483d-bbbf-2e8fa2508e70

While Natasha was here, we got her to take a family picture. One or two beasts are missing but the key players are there. (Those are treats that I'm clutching in my left hand, as the dogs are well aware.)

Saturday, March 14, 2020

Letter from Espargal: 13 March 2020


20200307_153334

This has been a busy week. A starting point would be Benafim's monthly mini-street market at the weekend. The chatter of the crowds as we browsed the stalls was suddenly interrupted by a blast of deafening music - I clutched my ears - to the accompaniment of which a bevy of muscular maidens began performing synchronised exercises in the street. Although the crowd enjoyed the show, any prizes would have been for enthusiasm or, possibly, for effort.

Women'sDayBadges

From an elderly resident of the parish retirement home I bought - at 20 cents a time - three badges reading (in Portuguese) 8 March, Women's Day, which I pinned to my jacket as an upstanding citizen. (It would seem that men do not yet have a day to call their own.) I noted later that several "pro-women's rights" demonstrations in less salubrious parts of the world had run into trouble with macho males. Reform never came easily!

Whatsapp

Sunday was sociable. We met neighbours at the Hamburgo both for brunch and for supper. Two of them reported remarkable experiences with the communications app, WhatApp, experiences that no amount of googling explained. One neighbour found that part of a conversation was added as text to a WhatsApp message; that's to say that the audio had some how been recorded and turned into text. Another reported that WhatsApp had sent out an entirely spurious message to a contact. Scary stuff! I use Kaspersky on my phone. I've also downloaded it on to Barbara's.


WOODCOCK ORCHID


Monday brought the usual English lesson. Much of it turned on the spread of the corona-virus in Portugal. The government has since announced the closure of schools and a host of other restrictions on institutions, businesses and events from this weekend. A flood of tourist cancellations has left hoteliers in the Algarve, as elsewhere, glum.

Guia

Tuesday we drove 40 minutes to the holiday village of Guia, where our accountants are based. Each year I carefully prepare our returns as the Portuguese taxman is not to be trifled with. When we first arrived here, long queues of folder-clutchers used to surround the Loule tax office in the period leading to submission deadlines. These days, only online submissions are accepted.

HouseOfCards

Tuesday night I had a shock when I sat down to watch the next episode of House of Cards, only to find that the previous episode had been the last. While I haven't exactly been addicted, I confess to having watched one or two episodes most days. The final episode was more reminiscent of deadly Latin American politics than Washington's. Perhaps, with so many bodies strewn about, it was the moment to call time on the series.

ValapenaCadastro
COMPLICATED!
Wednesday we took a widowed neighbour to Loule for meetings - hers and ours - with a lawyer. Following the completion of Casa Nada's registration, I have spent hours collating our property files - mainly just sections of a field - with all the documents and correspondence pertaining to each. At a minimum we are talking about the deed of purchase and the certificates relating to registration, local taxes, GPS points and a house's energy efficiency.

SlavicFire

Thursday Slavic and I burned off the cuttings that remained from the tree pruning earlier in the year. I first sought the required permission from the "bombeiros" to light fires on the property. As the morning was overcast and windless, they were happy to give me the go-ahead. At the same time I noticed that they now carefully record the caller's identity as well as location and contacts, and they specify a deadline for burning before assigning one a reference number.

WildTulipsMirrororchid

As Slavic was clearing, he came across this small patch of wild tulips half concealed in the bushes. And, if you look carefully, you will spot a couple of mirror orchids lower centre. Such floral trifles bring us a measure of delight in inverse proportion to their size. Slavic has also begun our annual strimming exercise, taking as much care as possible to leave interspersed flowers intact.

BJstudyWindows

While the pair of us occupy ourselves outside, Barbara takes the opportunity to catch up on chores inside. Although Natasha cleans the ground floor once a week, Barbara takes it upon herself to do the upper floor, where she is pictured (trying to re-thread my Chinese-shop joggers). That's the jacuzzi cover visible through the glass door on the left. I rather liked the photo.

CatDoor

And this one too. I have just cleared today's (25) spam messages from my emails. They were divided more or less equally between pleas for support from US Republicans, ladies advertising genital services, West African scammers, imaginary Bitcoin payments and "protective" corona-virus masks. Speaking of which, I was briefly fooled by the Covid-19 advice hoax purporting to come from "Stanford Health Care" - brilliantly conceived and most persuasive!

DistantMoon

Jones is less concerned with spam than with watching for the arrival of the full moon.

BJmoonshot

And doing her level best to photograph that elusive orb with our now-it's-in-focus, now-it-isn't camera. Okay, if you look really carefully, you may be able to see that moon-lander thingy still squatting in the sea of tranquillity.

CircleOfContemplation

We have renamed the intended garden jacuzzi-circle as the Circle of Contemplation. Jonesy says it now needs a bench to seat contemplatives. I'm sure we can find one.

RoseGarden

Sufficient unto the week.













Saturday, March 07, 2020

Letter from Espargal: 6 March 2020

SunCloudSky

Let me kick off with one of Barbara's dawns while I gather my thoughts.

solarLamp

Last week I bought some smart new solar lamps that Slavic and I installed at either end of the carport. At the same time we removed several older models (that had semi-retired themselves) with a view to replacing the batteries. Two of the batteries were large and heavy  - not the kind one finds at supermarkets.

batteries

So I spent a good deal of time on the internet looking for local suppliers. (Amazon stocked them but the postage prices were outrageous!) Sunday I stumbled online across an outfit called "Only Battery" who operated a shop in nearby Almancil. I carefully noted it location on Google maps.

BatteryChangeShop
WE ARE MOVING SHOP
Monday, having confused two intersections, I drove Jones in circles for half an hour on one of those highways that don't let you off again. When we eventually found the shop, we also found a notice, pinned to the window, informing  visitors that the business had moved to Ferreiras, about 45 minutes away.

Map

Tuesday - this time with photos of the location - we drove to Ferreiras to obtain the batteries. (I'd checked that they were in stock.) The sales-ladies agreed with me that they ought to update their location online. Next I have to install the batteries, a fiddly job with multiple wires and tiny screws.

MagpieBath

Over lunch we admired the azure-winged magpies that were taking turns to bathe in the stone bird-bath in the garden. They are such handsome birds. Each bird would take a dip before splattering the water with its wings and then making way for the next.

Magpiebath2

Magpies are social creatures. You never see a single individual. They always arrive in groups, sussing the place out from the branches before descending to the bird feeder or the bath.

PigeonJacuzzi1

Still on birds, Barbara one morning discovered a pigeon resting on the jacuzzi cover amid the shallow pools of water left by a shower of rain. As the bird was ringed, we alerted our pigeon-fancier neighbour, one of whose birds had visited us some years ago.

IMG_3593

He dropped by to explain that it wasn't his pigeon, but almost certainly one of a dozen or more that had failed to return from a race held in poor weather the previous day. It was probably just resting, he explained, and would be grateful for a drink and some rice grains or bird seed. When Barbara opened the patio door to put seed out, the bird flew off, presumably well rested.

FlowerBee

Meanwhile, I've been getting a hard time from a bee (or bees) that object to passers- by on the path we follow each afternoon. Twice this week, at the same spot, an angry insect has buzzed around my head. It harassed me for all of 50 metres as I stumble-fled up the path, cursing and flapping my hat frantically around my head. The dogs thought I'd gone mad. No doubt I cut an exceedingly comic figure although I didn't find it at all funny.  The episodes left me breathless and wondering how to avoid a repetition.

TerryCarryPally

Wednesday I was breathless again, this time after carrying Pally 200 metres up the hill to the top gate. The little three-legger is a lot heavier than he looks. I ought to start by saying that I had returned home with the other dogs when I got a "please help" call from Barbara, who had gone looking for Pally.

Pally'sSnake

She found him guarding a large snake that he absolutely refused to abandon. The snake was motionless. Whether it was alive or dead wasn't clear. The only way Jones could budge Pally was to pick him up and carry him back home up a steep, rocky path - twice the distance I had to carry him - until she bumped into me. I hope that the snake is alive and has disappeared by the time we go walking on Thursday.

SlavicAlexanders

Thursday - the snake was indeed alive and had taken itself off. Slavic and I spent most of the morning harvesting giant "alexanders". The plants have completely colonised parts of the property. This was one of half a dozen loads that we dumped on Barbara's compost heap - and there's at least a dozen more to come.

WaterFilter-001

By far the toughest job was replacing the water filter with the broken valve. Like a stubborn tooth, the compression fittings securing the old filter fiercely resisted removal and, when we finally got them out, they didn't fit the new one. A trip to the hardware shop in Benafim for adjustment couplings eventually did the trick. It was with some nervousness that I turned the water back on after installing the new filter, but not a drop came from the joints. Slavic had done a good job.

tongueOrchid
TONGUE ORCHID THAT JONES DISCOVERED IN ONE OF HER POTS
Like South Africa, Portugal has registered its first case(s) of the dreaded coronavirus. So far, they have appeared only in the northern half of the country, far from us, not that distance is much of a factor in its spread. The Portuguese government worries about the impact on its all-important tourist industry. We watch and wait and wonder whether the epidemic will affect our holiday plans later in the year.

BarbaraBarri

Its arrival makes us all the more grateful for the privileged semi-rural life we enjoy among our pets, our plants and our avian visitors - far from the madding crowds. We are lucky people.

TBminiLap
AN OLD MASTER: RONBRANDT

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