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Friday, September 19, 2014

Letter from Espargal: 19 September 2014

Summer ends in the Algarve, not with a gentle slide into Autumn, but by falling over a cliff.

In the space of a day or two, temperatures dive from the sweaty mid-30s into the refreshing mid-20s.

And the air gets a different, moist quality, with a suggestion of rain to come.

Here, in Barbara's picture - most of the photos are hers - you glimpse the distant sunlit mountains between the dark hills beneath and the lowering clouds above.


The rain clouds timed their arrival to coincide with Cathy's departure for Berlin.

She was such an easy guest that she really just became part of the household.

I am putting up some of the pictures marking memorable moments of her visit.

Cathy is never happier than when holding a cat in her arms - well, seldom happier - and Braveheart would sometimes oblige.

Some years ago I hauled this tree-trunk into the yard with the tractor and set it up as a seat sculpture.

Since then Slavic has created the stone pavement that surrounds the two pomegranate trees.

I erected the stone sculptures right of frame.

And Jonesy added the inevitable pots and succulent plants.

The tin box left of frame holds a supply of firewood.

Cathy was not best pleased when I snapped this picture of her in her gardening clothes, sitting beside the garden tool box on the front patio.

She preferred, she said, to be photographed looking her best, and would rather not see the picture on the blog.

She relented after being persuaded of its merits; and here she is, as neat and tidy as always.

This is a characteristic she shares with my wife but not with me.

There is a little cafe in the village of Funchais, half way home from Loule, that serves wondrous ham and cheese sandwiches.

They taste even better washed down with a glass of the house wine.

The proprietor is happy to turn off the music feed to the outside speakers, the better to allow us to enjoy the sounds of silence instead.

The dogs snuggle down under the table and we reflect, between mouthfuls and sips, on the views down the valley, beyond the house that you can see reflected in the window.

This is Marie's living room, at the dinner she threw to welcome neighbours and their visitors.

Like all Marie's dinners, it tasted pretty special. She has the knack and takes a lot of trouble.

On Barbara's left - that's to say, her right - is Pauline, Marie's near neighbour.

Wine is served in Marie's inherited crystal glasses. We drank with heightened appreciation.

Less formal was lunch at a snack-bar on Faro beach.

We were as grateful that day for the shade from the (out of sight) beach brollies as for the cold beer and toasted tuna sandwiches.

Although the sun still roasted beach-goers, August's hordes had thinned out. There was ample easy parking and lots of space at the tables.

The proprietors were as pleased with our custom as we with their service.

Another outing was to the fair staged one weekend on the ancient bridge that crosses the Algibre river at the village of Tor.

These days the short-cut across the bridge, built by the Romans, to the main road beyond is restricted to pedestrians and cyclists.

Local handicraft was on sale at the kiosks that lined the walkway. The dog-leads in my hands dangle down to the usual suspects, Ono and Prickles.

Close by, an engineer was setting up for the music that was to entertain the crowds into the night. By then, we were long gone.

Although at this time of year, the Algibre runs dry, its nourishment drained by numerous pumps and boreholes, the river-bed is dotted with occasional pools.

This brilliant picture of one such was taken from the bridge.

Its merits need no singing. All compliments to Barbara please.

This picture centres on Anita, daughter of neighbours, Pauline and Fintan (immediately behind her).

Anita was down from Dublin for a break with her folks.

To the right is her host, Olly (we are back at Marie's dinner).

The man on the left needs no introduction.

Anita is good fun. If I were a Zulu, I might consider incorporating....never mind!

Another neighbour, Sarah, insisted that I make mention of the annual boules competition on the pitch that she and David have created.

Family in the UK were waiting to see the pictures, she told me.

As it happened, I wasn't present; Cathy partnered Barbara instead.

I was taking the car to the local workshops for minor repairs after coming too close to an invisible pole.

But here's a picture anyhow of most of the competitors against the background of Sarah and David's house - the old bakery.

The winners this year were Fintan and Pauline - and that on their 50th wedding anniversary.

Rumour has it that their delivery, somewhat like that of the Pakistani bowlers, was a trifle unconventional.

Whatever their technique, there was no arguing with the result.

Here they are being presented with the trophy by the Dutch ladies, who won last year.

I should not leave the boules pitch without drawing your attention to the new wall that the owners have built at the end of it.

Although builders assisted with the wall's construction, the cladding and artwork are Sarah's alone.

Look carefully at the picture. It is not recessed as it first appears. The tiles below, like the frame, are a painted 3D illusion.

They speak of Sarah's talents more eloquently than I can.

All week the Portuguese weather bureau has been sending out weather warnings.

Heavy showers, high winds, thunder and lightning!

Judging by the satellite-picture depression heading our way, we were in for a rough time.

But the black clouds rolling in delivered just a dribble of rain with nary a crack of thunder.

At least, we didn't have to water the garden.

The air was so moist that even the house floor tiles were damp.

Under the circumstances we lit a tiny fire, to dry the air rather than to warm us.

It was the first of the autumn.

Our newly-delivered oak firewood burns hot and long.

And small as the fire was, the dogs settled happily around it.

At the weekend Slavic and Roslan returned to continue their good work on paths and steps.

For much of the morning I had to leave them to it, as I tried to sort out a confusion between our lawyer, ourselves and a neighbour who was about to purchase a property from us.

This confusion arose, not over the sale itself, but over the complex bureaucracy surrounding it - and who would be responsible for it.

Praise be! matters were sorted in time although I aged several months in the process.

Neither legal complexities nor path construction get in the way of our evening games of Hide & Seek.

Here I instruct the dogs, waiting behind the gate to an enclosure, to STAY until I call them.

Then I head off into our large garden, trying to think of a hiding place that will take them more than a few seconds to sniff out.

Cathy waits (out of shot) to open the gate on my call.

We have tried playing the game without first enclosing the dogs behind a fence.

I put them on their honour to remain seated in the car port and not to move until they hear me call.

Prickles gives me 30 seconds before he barks; his companions take this as a clear signal that the hunt is on.

Whooping and wailing, they come streaming in my wake. I sometimes wonder what the neighbours must think.

I have to get their treats ready for the dogs insist on being promptly rewarded for finding me.

Prickles is our smallest dog - but only in physical size.

In spirit and in ranking, he's a giant.

He very much likes humans to scratch his head for extended periods.

A moment's pause brings a reminding paw.

As an alternative, I invite him on to my lap.

At the other end of the scale is Raymond.

He and his brother, Bobby, compete to sit beside me on the couch.

Here the pair of us are liable to drift off to sleep, particularly after a good supper and especially in front of a somnolent fire.

Once we used to insist that the dogs knew their place.

But after they had voted unanimously to become full members of the family, we gave up the struggle.

Each evening, on her waifs and strays run, Barbara pauses to feed Robbie Savage.

He was so named by Olly - after RS scratched (or bit) him - in a punny reference to the former Welsh football player.

Robbie Savage is still very shy and although he has come to trust Barbara, he will not permit her to touch him.

As a footnote: On seeing Robbie Savage, Olly declared that the cat was an imposter and not the real feline Robbie Savage at all.

Cathy entertained us one evening to a posh restaurant to celebrate Barbara's recent 70th birthday.

The occasion was a special one. As frequently as we eat out, it is seldom anywhere other than the local eateries (with which I find no fault).

As I write, I am painfully aware that I am soon to follow Barbara's example and enter upon septuagenarian pastures.

This is not an occasion that I look forward to. It is only my awareness of the dire alternative that encourages me to go ahead with it.

Let me turn to happier topics.

Barbara's garden is showing the benefits of her efforts and Cathy's extensive waterings.

These handsome flowers are called something that I can't remember.

I'll check with Jones in the morning - if I remember.

And the blood lilies are now in splendid bloom.

They emerge from the soil each year in response to the first rains.

We came across them first at the Quinta.

And we find them just as fascinating these many years later.

WARTS AND ALL

No words needed!

Friday, September 12, 2014

Letter from Espargal: 12 September 2014

WAITING FOR THE MOON TO RISE

This week has encompassed a glorious moon, a visiting toad, two owls, two hoopoes, the first shower of autumn and a deal of conviviality as well as a great many odds and ends.

Let me start with the owls. Jones heard them calling to each other early one morning. Spying one of them, a magnificent specimen, perched on the phone pole in our garden, she grabbed the camera and did her utmost to get a good shot of the bird. What frustration!

ON TOP OF THE PHONE POLE IN THE GARDEN

The camera, which has always had a wayward streak, was prepared to focus on everything except the owl. Of the 20 or so pictures that she snapped, only one or two were in acceptable focus. This is the best of them.

When she confessed her frustrations to me (not for the first time) I responded (also not for the first time) that I was going to replace the wretched camera with a more responsive model. It's a threat that Jones has heard often enough. This time, I kept my word - during a visit to FNAC in Guia. (I'm impressed by FNAC. I find staff both knowledgeable and helpful.)

PREPARING SUPPER

Jones was not best pleased. She is not a fan of the throw-away economy. In her world, possessions are to be acquired, maintained and kept. They are not to be discarded, not even devices as consistently irritating as our camera.

She tells herself (and me) that if she studies the instructions carefully enough, she will find a way to solve the problem. At her request, I have downloaded the camera manual.

For my part, I suspect that she can study the instructions until she knows them by heart to little avail. But only time will tell.

AIN'T SHE A BEAUT?

Meanwhile, I used the new camera, a medium-priced Nikon Coolpix P530, to take several shots of the amazing moon that has lit up our week. Unlike the Olympus that it replaces, it is happy to focus on whatever one chooses; it also comes with a host of other advantages. I love it.

On Tuesday evening, we took our drinks to the upstairs patio to watch the moon rise - a super moon, as you probably know. The orb came floating up over the eastern hills in a spectacular show of lunar glory. What a beautiful moon it was, an ostentatious, exhibitionist, knock-you-sidewise moon!

AN EXTRAORDINARY LUMINARY

The official reason for our visit to Guia was to fetch our holiday tickets from the Abreu travel agency.

The agent presented us with a great wallet full of these - covering our flights, hotels and the cruise - as well as complimentary laundry bags, suitcase straps and the like.

In under three weeks we will be on our way. It suddenly feels real. Our regret is only that we will not be able to visit Crimea, our orginal intended destination.

DOESN'T GET MUCH BETTER THAN THIS!

The hoopoes, of which I do not have a picture, have made themselves at home in the fields on either side of our road. They often fly up as we walk or drive past.

They are quite bold and I have to slow right down to avoid a collision. That would be awful.

I really hate hitting a bird when I'm driving.

The toad also made himself at home, in a flower pot where Jones came upon him as she was watering Mary's garden. She called Cathy and me across to view the beast. He's huge.

He evidently didn't much like being observed or disturbed for he hopped out with surprising alacrity and made his way down the path to a more secluded spot.

Cathy has since found a number of pots overturned, she suspects as a result of toad's efforts to find himself another home.

Cathy has identified our visitor as Pelobates Cultripes via the ever helpful Wikipedia site; the creature is known under several names including the western spadefoot and Iberian spadefoot toad.

A farmer neighbour, Ze Carlos, returned our carob-collection bins one evening, packed with water melons, grapes, aubergines and peppers. There was enough to feed half the village. I spent an hour or more, first emailing our expat neighbours to ascertain their needs and then taking a tractor load of fresh products around to them. En route I plied such Portuguese neighbours as I encountered with the same. Even so, I still have a dozen or more water melons to dispose of.

CATHY'S LABOURS WERE GREATLY APPRECIATED

Wednesday brought May lunch, Natasha and a relieving shower.

We weren't actually around for the shower; we were still lunching with May in Loule when it fell. But the wet roads on the approach to the village and a welcome 4mm in the rain gauge spoke for themselves.

For the first evening in months, we didn't need to water the garden.

I should put in an additional word for Cathy, whose daily waterings have refreshed the flowers as much as they have relieved Barbara of the burden.

She has also taken care of my "creeping plants" that are on the point of providing us with a variety of squashes. Significantly, the weather has changed in the past few days, suddenly taking on a damp and cloudy autumnal hue.

NEW STEPS LEADING UP THROUGH THE PEN TO THE PARK

Slavic and his brother, Roslan, who worked hard on our garden paths last weekend, are due back again tomorrow for more of the same.

They have been improving several routes through the garden and park by laying down a heavy gravel mixture base and building a series of steps up the steeper parts.

The brothers are both builders. According to Slavic, Roslan is more experienced and skilled in several aspects of construction.

But I am unable to learn more of this from Roslan himself; for the moment I converse only with Slavic in Portuguese and he with his brother in his native Ukrainian.

DRINKS ON THE PATIO WITH SARAH & DAVID

Our several outings have included dinner at the Hamburgo at which two neighbours took daughters along while we took Cathy. I was seated beside Marie's daughter, Debbie, who was recounting her experiences in an institution looking after people with dementia, many of them necessarily wearing adult nappies. She is extraordinarily dedicated to her work.

CATHY IS AN ENTHUSIASTIC WHATS-APPER

Cathy and I have both received a pleading email from a distant cousin who had allegedly been stranded in a foreign country and needed some assistance to get home. Having previously received similar pleas from other acquaintances, we were dubious in the extreme.

A quick phone call revealed that the unfortunate woman had suffered hacks to both her business and private emails. She was being inundated by callers alerting her to the intrusion as she attempted to repair matters. I kept our conversation short and then made sure that my anti-virus suite was up to date.

Friday, September 05, 2014

Letter from Espargal: 5 September 2014

The end of August brings with it a certain relief each year, the relief of knowing that we have survived another sweaty, itchy summer and can look forward to autumn's mildness.

Summer, however, like an unwelcome guest, is staying on. Although the ornithogalums, autumn's harbinger, are popping up in the park, the season itself is not yet in sight.

Sunday evening - evenings are the best time of day - we joined friends at the Hamburgo for an alfresco meal. Cathy has got to know most of them over the years and we always sit down for a catch-up. I was nursing the middle finger of my right hand, which was twingeing with arthritis.

This happens occasionally, generally in reaction to an unsympathetic bottle of wine. As I couldn't pin down the culprit, I thought it wise to stick to beer. Cathy thought so too, having previously experienced the same reaction even though she hardly touches the stuff.

I should add that Cathy was growing concerned about Rolf, who was tramping alone through the remote bogs of Scotland - his idea of fun. She knew that the weather hadn't been kind to him.

More seriously, the tracking device he uses to relay his position to her by satellite wasn't showing any sign of his progress. Nor was there any cellphone coverage. She'd had no contact with him since arriving here.

While reassuring ourselves that some technical problem had arisen, we started to wonder if all was well.

Monday wasn't a great day. To begin with, Ono deposited a large, very messy poo right in the middle of one of Alte's prettier cobbled roads. Nobody seemed to notice. To do one's civic duty or not to do?

After a moment's hesitation I made my way to the nearby Chinese shop where I bought a large roll of kitchen paper and cleaned up the gooey pile, much to the approval of my wife and sister. Yuck!

Jones wasn't madly sympathetic. She'd had to do the same thing in Loule a few days earlier, without recourse to a handy Chinese shop.

Next - the real estate agents who had found Natasha the perfect apartment sent us an urgent email. The owner had informed them that a third party had made a higher offer.

Unless we met it we could kiss the deal goodbye. I hastened into Loule to talk to the agents.

They, it emerged, knew nothing of the new buyer. In short, we lost out. I informed our lawyer, who had already prepared most of the paperwork. I was very disappointed. So was Natasha.

The good news came from Rolf, who had arrived at a B&B after several days' hard trek through the Scottish wilderness. He had no idea that his tracking device had been playing up.

Because it's his protection in case of accident - designed to send out an emergency signal with his co-ordinates - he thought it better to cut his solitary hike short and get it sorted out.

Tuesday morning he caught a bus back to Glasgow while Cathy booked him a ticket for an early flight to Berlin the following day.

Wednesday Cathy came into town with us, both to get her (copious) hair washed and dried by Fatima and to help entertain May.

As I was backing out of May's drive-way while declaiming knowledgeably on one or other topic, the car's rear fender kissed a pole that wasn't there, greatly to my irritation. Touch-up paint has disguised the evidence but done nothing for the bruises on my soul.

In-between times I fetched a parcel from a courier pick-up point nearby. It contains a "receptor" for the bedroom, to bring an end to our daily buffering and audio synch irritations. I have yet to acquire a small compatible speaker.

Still on a tech theme, I have invested in four motion-activated solar-lamps that I'm erecting at various points of the property where we tend to fall over ourselves on dark nights. They are adjustable for sensitivity, light and duration. So far so good!

Wednesday evening I met Natasha at estate agents in Loule to view three apartments. Each had something to recommend it and something lacking.

At least we are getting a better idea of what's available and at what price. How we rue the loss of the ideal apartment early in the week!

Thursday: The weather is a mite cooler. There are even showers forecast for next week. Roll on!

After walks, watering and carobs, we drove to the big shopping centre at Guia. While Jones and Cathy did their thing, I made my way to FNAC to seek suitable speakers.

A helpful and clued-up fellow guided me to the speaker section and indicated what was and wasn't compatible with my receptor.

Afterwards we headed for Praia da Coelha (Beach of the [doe] Rabbit). During my stint in South Africa, Jones had lunched there with neighbours at a super restaurant.

But she hadn't noted exactly how to get there. For try as we might - and we sure tried - we couldn't find the right road. Nor were we the only ones.

Following several attempts, much reversing and some inquiring, we came home via a less elusive country restaurant.

After a snooze I set up the receptor & speakers in the bedroom. The system works well, coming off the digibox even when the TV set is turned off. Hooray! No more buffering!

Cathy has been chatting to Rolf who is back in Berlin and considering his options.

After working much of the day on his satellite tracker, he reckons that he has resolved the software problem that was bugging it. Certainly, Cathy is able to track his movements once again.

Letter from Espargal: 29 August 2014

GEOMETRIC BUG ON OUR LUNCH TABLE

One of the functions of our amazing iPads (they are truly amazing) is to wake us up to Today, BBC Radio 4's morning current affairs programme. I half listen as I lie back in bed, drifting in and out of Today-related dreams, trying to persuade Ono to move over and awaiting the arrival of my toast and coffee.

Jones, who rises early, takes her iPad through to the study with her. For some months earlier this year, after losing the UK satellite radio & TV transmissions - all our listening came digitally from our iPads.

Subsequently a clever fellow installed a system that piggy-backs encrypted UK satellite transmissions - as long as one has the key. Sound and vision come via TV sets in the study upstairs and the living room downstairs - but not in the bedroom where we fall back on our iPads.

This raises a problem. Because the iPads buffer, they are forever out of synch - both with each other and with the satellite reception. The resulting repetitions and omissions can be most irritating. You miss the bits you want to hear and you get a double dose of those you don't.

WHERE ON EARTH DID I PUT IT?

In the good old days I used wireless equipment to beam the digital signal from the study to the bedroom, equipment that I subsequently dismantled and stored away.

Do you think I can remember where? I have hunted high and low - in vain.

However, in the course of my property-wide search, in sundry nooks I came across and removed a score of dusty cardboard boxes in which items of equipment had been delivered down the years. Some of them dated back to London.

Using the tractor, I took them down to Espargal's recycling dump. Their departure has created a lot of space that we will have to fill in due course.

AIR FORCE GYMNASIUM, 1962

I also found a plastic bag containing dozens of old family photographs dating back to the 1930s. These I have scanned in to my computer and hoisted into the Cloud for the benefit of relatives, present and future.

It gave me great pleasure to behold Mum and Dad once again in their prime. As for their sexagenarian offspring, we were once the cutest kids.

On Monday I planned to fetch the documents that I had left at the parish office for the president (in Portugal mayors are called presidents) to sign and stamp - to obtain a Schengen visa for an SA visitor.

However, her assistant called to say that the documents wouldn't be ready for several days because the lady had taken leave. Fortunately, there's no pressure for them.

YOU MUST HAVE BEEN A BEAUTIFUL BABY!

This does not hold true for a great many older drivers in Portugal who, from the age of 70, have to renew their driving licences every two years. Although one can put in a renewal request up to six months in advance - and I have - the licence office now often takes a year and more to dispatch the new plastic.

The delays are said to arise from new equipment and a lack of trained operators - to say nothing of the inevitable suffocating fug of Portuguese bureaucracy.

Drivers awaiting licences may use an interim piece of paper within Portugal. Beyond its borders, they are not permitted to drive; international licences are not valid beyond the expiry date. As in South Africa, it's only the tax department that's up to speed - submissions preferred online!

Monday evening I watched the Edinburgh Castle Tattoo. "You’ve seen it before," said Jones when I sat down, which was true but didn't detract from my pleasure in seeing it again. The participants change from year to year.

This year's included Zulu dancers with some uninhibited bare-breasted maidens. As entertaining as they were, one became aware of the advantages of modern female underpinning.

THE PLOUGHMAN HOMEWARD PLODS HIS WEARY WAY

On Tuesday, I was knocking down carobs that a bare-headed Jones was picking up when a large carob landed right on her crown. I can still see it heading for her like a missile. Jones was not pleased. A carob descending from 6 metres really hurts. I tried to apologise as she rubbed her head but it's hard to sound sincere when you're laughing. So I gave her a kiss instead. Sometimes, the only way to mend things is to kiss them better.

It's been hot - very hot! I have received daily email warnings from the weather bureau about the heat-wave enveloping the Algarve. They spoke truly. Tuesday temps rose into the upper 30s. The dogs spread themselves out like mats on the tiles. We all panted. In the house the fans brought us some relief.

At least the weather was perfect for dinner under the trees at the Hamburgo with a group of visiting friends of friends from the UK. They're on a golfing vacation centred on a fancy resort on the coast. We met them there and were able to show them a little of the "real" Algarve and the advantages of living up in the hills.

Wednesday - May day - with thermometer on 37*C, I was afraid to leave the dogs in the car, even with the windows down. Instead I left Jonesy and May to lunch inside at the Calypso while I sat outside with the dogs on the small terrace where there was at least a breath of air.

Thursday morning, as we panted around the hills, the assistant at the parish office called again to say that the "presidente" had extended her leave. I thanked her, assuring her that the delay wasn't a problem. If necessary, I could get the documents stamped in Loule the same day but I'd have to wait around and pay a whack for the privilege.

Thursday lunchtime, after a serious carob-picking sesson, I ran a tractor-load down to our famer friend at the bottom of the village. He and his family had also been out picking. I watched them return in a bakkie groaning under the 29 sacks they had gathered that morning. His large cellar is nearly full.

FIREWOOD DELIVERY

High-sided trucks from the carob-milling yards are already - the season is barely underway - taking in the harvest. Sacks from the farmers' storerooms are hoisted on to small conveyors that lift them up to topple into the maws of the truck.

The carob season is the most bountiful in years. That's important. It's really just carobs and tourists that sustain the Algarve. And here in the hills it's carobs.

GONE ARE THE DAYS WHEN I STACKED IT MYSELF

Friday morning early my firewood supplier arrived with an additional ton to fill up the spaces I still had in the shed. He and his assistant turned down my offer of tractor haulage, preferring to use their wheelbarrows to shunt the wood through the gates and around the corner.

It's truly lovely wood, hard wood that burns long and hot and leaves little ash. I try not to think of where it came from. It may well be a luxury denied to the next generation.

Friday afternoon Cathy flew in from Germany. The dogs welcomed her like an old friend. Even suspicious Bobby, abused in his youth (not by us) was delighted to see her. We supped under the stars at the Hamburgo. Here she is, on the couch with a kitty.

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