

As Eddie is an experienced builder and plumber. I asked him about the temperature fluctuation problems we’ve been having in the showers with our thermostatic taps. The cause was generally a gummed-up cartridge, Eddie said, advising me to replace rather than clean them. The next day I tried to get at the cartridge. Not a chance in hell. Whoever made the tap didn’t intend amateurs to fiddle with it. I phoned Fintan, a retired plumber neighbour, to seek help. Fintan’s a good man. He came around promptly. Crouching down in a poise that would have busted my knees, he found a tiny hole underneath the tap that took an Alan key and was able to dismantle it.

This is the season of wild fires. To minimise the danger, like most of our neighbours I strim and scarify our lands. I took the tractor around to old Chico’s fields to do the same for him. Separated by two steep banks, they slope uncomfortably down the hillside. Only the trees protruded from the jungle of tall grass. I descended nervously to his bottom terrace, using my lowest range of gears. I was glad the locals weren’t watching. They imbibed tractors with their mothers’ milk and would have been much amused by my efforts.
On the top field, Mario was clearing the growth with his digger. He had attached a wide, toothed shovel to the digger arm and simply tore the grass away with raking motions like some huge grazing monster. By the time he was finished, the field was virtually bare.
We stopped in Zé Carlos’s yard one afternoon to find him crouching over the back hub of his tractor, a much-used John Deere, about ten years old. Around him on a sheet of plastic lay a variety of tools. He’d removed the left back wheel to get at the side-shaft, which had lost its teeth - for the third time, he said - and was spinning uselessly. It seemed to me to be a hugely complicated job.

He and his dad have continued to give us their overflow melons and tomatoes. We have two or three small melons for lunch each day, occasionally with a splash of port in the hole in the middle. They are really delicious.
We asked Idalecio for advice about the mildew that has been attacking Jones’s pumpkin plants. He brought us a packet of muti to spray on the leaves. One often sees farmers spraying their crops, generally from tanks mounted on the back of tractors. Idalecio told us that pests were a huge problem. Unless crops were treated regularly – sometimes every day - farmers were likely see nothing in return. Part of the problem was, he said, that imperfect fruit and vegetables didn’t sell. He warned us that the better fruit looks, the more it has been sprayed.


Twice we’ve been to Loulé’s summer fair. The first time was really to fill a couple of hours before taking Dani up to friends of ours in Cruz da Assumada to collect an old washing machine. We made a second visit with a group of expat neighbours and visitors, joining the throngs that roamed around the tented stalls erected on the square below the courthouse. These sell every kind of home industry product. Our group bought a box of cakes that we then consumed, along with coffees and tummy-settling medronhos, at the tables set up on the central islands along Loulé’s main avenue.
Last weekend we went to Faro to listen to Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana, put on by the Lisbon symphony orchestra and choir. I thought it was great. Like most summer concerts, it started at 10 p.m. In spite of this, scores of people failed to make it to the theatre on time. So many were late that the house lights were actually brightened again to assist the late-comers, who continued to troop down the aisles for 20 minutes. One woman, with clippety clop heels, got hissed at. I think part of the problem was the late arrival of one or two coaches.

Jones has just read through my letter as usual. “It’s a bit……” she paused, “humdrum”. “But,” not wanting to be too hard on me, she added: “otherwise fine”. There you have it.
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