This is a travelogue rather than a blog. It's brief because my back is still playing up. The account covers our three day visit over Christmas to the Quinta da Ortiga pousada on the outskirts of the Alentejo town of Santiago de Cacem. ("Santiago" is Portuguese/Spanish for St James) The town, like most in the region, clusters around a fortified hilltop that was much fought over by generations of Moors and Christians. The nearby coast features great spans of empty beaches and craggy cliffs. Our first stop was at Cabo (Cape) Sardao, where we were fascinated by the flock of storks circling over the cliffs. Closer inspection revealed several of the birds sitting on nests that were built on fierce outcrops of rocks.
The pousada itself is an old farm that was expropriated by the government following the 1974 revolution and later converted into an hotel. Its main attraction for us was the small cottage that we were offered as accommodation and the invitation to bring our dogs with us at no additional cost. The three associated pictures show the cottage, the Casa da Capela, and Jones relaxing on the couch inside. The cottage was perfect for our needs. Alongside the noisy fan heating was a welcome log fire, beside which the dogs curled up happily in their baskets each evening.
After breakfast - included in the bill - we'd walk the dogs through the adjoining forests and fields before taking ourselves out in the car. The trees were spectacular, mighty eucalyptus, ancient cork oak and umbrella pine. A flock of sheep wearing bell collars tinkled their way up the dirt road each morning to graze freely in the fields around us.
On the coast we found great empty stretches of beach where the dogs could run free and there was nothing to be seen other than sand, shells and the lapping ocean. Much of the coast has been declared a reserve area. From time to time one comes across unspoiled holiday and fishing villages, occupied at this time of year only by their inhabitants and fleets of motorhomes bearing north European number plates.
Because Portugal, like Spain, now has legislation requiring dogs travelling in cars to wear a safety harness, Ono was trussed up accordingly. The two little guys were reduced to riding behind the grill in the rear of the car - a downgrading at which they protested fiercely. Sorry guys, the police were out in force and the fines for contravening the new law were heavy.
During one outing we came across a family of black pigs in a field near the Quinta. The piglets were having fun and games, much like young puppies. We came across a very large black pig that was wandering down the road, caught up in its thoughts. We gave it lots of room. It was probably a domesticated and well-behaved pig but it was also extremely big and we were not sure about the proper etiquette for meeting pigs.
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