Letter from Tallinn

Saturday 28 May. We have a day at sea. That’s fine by us. Whenever we stop over we feel compelled to explore and it gets exhausting. So we wander around the ship instead. Her heart is the multi-deck atrium (with fancy glass elevators) where the desks are situated in the midst of bars, restaurants, shops, lounges, the casino, the internet lobby and much else.

The casino hasn’t tempted us, nor (so far) have the pools, jacuzzis, shops, chapel, spa or gymnasium. But we have made use of the library (fleetingly), the theatre, the lounges, coffee bars and (especially) buffet restaurants.

200 METRE CORRIDOR

At the Reception Desk we meet two South Africans, one of them the purser. There are at least three Afrikaans speaking couples on the voyage. Most of the passengers are English speaking, with lots of Spanish speakers, many Germans and a contingent of Chinese. The few French feel ill-catered for, as Jones learns from a French couple later.

On sea days, the ship lays on additional entertainment. Passengers are invited to dress formally (we lack the clothes) and to meet the captain (we decline.) The official photographer snaps away, as she does at every opportunity.

We attend a talk on amber by the jewellery shop owner. Most of the world’s amber comes from the Baltic. It’s a useful talk, despite the marketing, as we learn how to distinguish the real stuff from the fake.

Another talk – on The Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg – by the ship’s art auctioneer is similarly useful. Thanks, but no thanks, we are not buying any art on this voyage.

Jones drags me up for some vigorous circuits of the deck. Three times around is a mile (it feels like two). She’s faster than I am and pulls ahead but I cut through the ship to come out in front. Somehow, although I continue slogging around, she loses me and spends 30 minutes searching the ship for me. She can’t believe that I was still doing circuits.

Sunday 29: We arrive in the Estonian capital Tallinn to find two big cruise ships already tied up there. On the far side of the terminal a line of coaches waits.

Beyond the ship ferries come and go. The Hop-on Hop-off buses are lining up just beyond the quay. Plug in your headphones and choose your language.

We get off at the high point of the old city. Several thousand other tourists are there already and the place heaves. With hundreds of others we edge our way into the Orthodox Cathedral, where the worshippers – at the front of the church – are vastly outnumbered by the gapers.

All are standing, responding to the chanting of a grey-bearded priest up front. There are no pews in Orthodox churches and services last some three hours, we learn later. Not for the faint-hearted. The priest disappears through an invisible door and we too take our leave.

Out again, into the alleys of old Tallinn, along with the chattering, picture-snapping crowds.

The old town is the centre of government and diplomacy. But only the tourists are in evidence.

We work our way downwards, stopping at a coffee shop for refreshments and a pee. There’s a line for the single multi-sex toilet which, as we discover, is normal in Tallinn.

Down again, past endless souvenir shops to the central square, bedecked with flags and full of market stalls. Linen, mohair and trinkets are much in evidence.

We lunch at a stall selling sausages, salad, salmon and sauerkraut. It’s good, especially with an affordable beer (me) and glass of wine (her).

Some kind of festival is taking place. Groups in folk costumes parade past us, some singing.

RIVAL CRUISE SHIPS

Back to the ship on foot. Dozens of stalls have been set up within the port. We explore them.

Beside us, sheep graze on the grass, indifferent to the tourists. Their world at least hasn't changed.