MONCHIQUE SQUARE
From Monchique we proceeded westwards, stopping to wander around Aljezur, an ancient town that squeezes a great deal of history into its narrow streets.
Archaeological sites indicate that humans have occupied the area for at least six thousand years. The Romans were there and so were the Moors until the mid-13th century when Aljezur castle fell to the Christian armies.
It was the last Moorish stronghold to resist the Christian reconquest of Iberia. These days all that remains are the walls and an underground water tank.
For hundreds of years after that agriculture sustained the town, supplying grain and other foodstuffs to the ships that sailed up the Aljezur creek to replenish their stocks. The creek has long since silted up.
We hiked up and later down the steep cobbled streets that lead to the castle, passing several small museums that - to our regret - were closed on Mondays.
When the town was partially destroyed by the great earthquake of 1755, it was rebuilt on the far side of the fertile river plain.
Aljezur remains so divided until this day. These days it attracts a great many tourists, especially backpackers, and it's common to hear German and Dutch spoken in the streets.
Our destination - an hour to the north - was a remote lodge called Paraiso Escondido (Hidden Paradise) with a number of diverse luxury suites and cabins. Barbara is seated outside Marula, the one we occupied for the next two days.
It's owners are Glenn and Berny, pictured either side of Barbara. He's British; she's Portuguese, born in Mozambique and educated in South Africa. The couple have been meticulous in developing and furnishing the lodge to their tastes and requirements.
THEIR PHOTO
It's hard to describe as it's a low-build development in several layers that lie against the hillside, one above the other, leading down to the dam that's used for irrigation.
THEIR PHOTO
The main house, upper centre-right, holds several of the suites as well as the library, lounge and dining area. The owners live lower left. That's their private pool in front. Guests have their own somewhat larger pool. We didn't try it. Just too cold!
Dining is taken seriously, whether breakfast (which is part of the package) and served by Marcia - or dinner, which is an optional extra. Meals are prepared by the resident chef.
The room is full of objets d'art, selected and sometimes designed and even made by the proprietors. Jones was in her element.
Marula (it's hard to know whether to describe it as a cabin, a lodge or a suite) was tops. I loved the mega-special mattress - an item, as I ascertained, that alone cost close to four figures. My fusspot back hasn't been so happy in ages.
From this base we set out to explore several of the small beach resorts along the west coast. The picture above shows the Ceixe river that frames the beach and Odeceixe Beach village above it.
The beach is vast and we had it largely to ourselves.
The tidal river had created a patchwork of pools along its bank. On the far side a number of camper vans had pitched camp.
The weather wasn't kind. Our stay was marked by frequent squalls and periods of rain. Regrettably, I was to leave the umbrella you see protecting me at our next stop, the beach hut at Azenha, pictured below.
Beneath the table to the left, half a dozen cats were perched on the chairs, making the most of the intermittent sunshine.
The cats were content to mind their own business on the understanding that customers did the same.
To our great surprise, we came across a scene that could have come straight out of Africa or possibly North America. Behind the fence was a collection of animals and birds including bison, various buck, zebra and ostriches. They looked pretty content with their lot.
And so farewell to the west coast and back home through the rain. Here I must pause for a moment.
A major unreported event in our lives was the death of Prickles, just before we went away. He had been ailing for some time.
He now rests beside Ono in a grave in our field. My thanks go to the neighbours who helped me bury him. RIP Pricks! You were a big dog in a small body. You have left a hole in our lives.
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